The Handbook to Civilised Sightseeing in Gansu 甘肅

“There is one secret to successful sightseeing in Gansu and most of China. When visiting a relatively famous sight, expect to see a thousand tourists gathered around, that way when there are only two hundred of them before you, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.”

– The Handbook to Civilised Sightseeing in Gansu (Unknown Author)

Last year, the Chinese government published an information packet to advise the Chinese public on how to behave while travelling abroad. With an ever growing middle class interested in exploring what the rest of the world has to offer, the government began to worry about the reputation its unofficial ambassadors were establishing outside its borders. Roughly translated as The Guide to Civilized Tourism and Travel, the 64-page book includes an opening letter asking the population to “join hands and show the height of our civilisation”, followed by precise instructions on how to behave in different settings. From toilet behaviour, personal grooming, restaurant tipping habits and appropriate cultural environment etiquette, China’s National Tourism Administration has left nothing to chance.

After travelling to several well-known touristic sites in the Gansu Province, we thought it would be helpful to share our favourite points from The Handbook to Civilised Sightseeing in Gansu. A practical guide on how to blend in as a foreign tourist in China and how to make the utmost of your experience while visiting these well-curated sites.

#1 Please dress appropriately

The weather in Gansu is often harsh. The best time to visit is during September and October when the skies are usually blue and the heat of the desert has subsided. However the natural elements can rebel and sandstorms can cover a city with yellow dust in an afternoon. Large colourful sunglasses and a scarf are the best solution for protecting your eyes from the dust as well as keeping the harsh sunlight away from your precious skin. If your scarf is not large enough to wrap around your head or face, we recommend a wide-brimmed hat or the region’s favourite cowboy hat as an alternative.

#2 A glossy, sparkling umbrella, the essential accessory

An umbrella is the perfect accessory to accompany your visits to the wilderness of Gansu. The Halloween candy corn stripped hills and cinnamon-turmeric peaks of the Danxia Rainbow Mountains are a must-see stop on your trip. While you are enjoying the beautiful sight of these twisted sedimentary rock  formations, reminiscent of apricot-tangerine fruit rolls and creamy mint or herby sage lozenges, the sun is attacking your face.

A shiny umbrella fulfils three important jobs, provides shade; makes sure we can locate you quickly if you get lost; and potentially provides enough reflection to create flares in the photos of other tourists who get too close to you.

#3  What lies behind exquisite antique Chinese doors

Warning, be prepared. Behind every old Chinese door could be one of the largest indoor Sleeping Buddhas in the world (35m long) or a large organised tour group. If you are lucky you will find the tour group with their bright blue banner and microphone toting guide, their collective voices echoing against the walls of the once peaceful Buddhist temple. So if you understand the language, you can eavesdrop or piggy back onto the information for free! If you are unlucky, you will find the absolutely stunning Reclining Buddha in the cool darkness of the temple in Zhangye all to yourself. Don’t be scared by the silence. 

#4 Always look forward when taking photos

When visiting landmarks in Gansu such as the Jiayuguan Fort or the Overhanging Great Wall, it is always best to keep your eye on the prize. With the delightfully curved temple roofs and impressive gate entrances of the Jiayuguan Fort, plus the possibility to cycle around its superb man-made lake at sunset, why take a look behind the wall? We advise you to look straight ahead and ignore the construction site just outside the internal walls.

At the Overhanging Great Wall just outside town, embrace the history that these walls have been through. Seeing the end of the Wall here is a fantastic experience, compared to major Great Wall tourist points such as in Beijing, there will be almost no one else to stand in the way of your photo-taking. Please assure us that you will only publish, share or upload photos of the wall facing north and not from the southern direction. Nobody needs to know what lies behind.

#5 Get your game on

We would like your experience at our parks and monuments to be a complete one. Our aim is to transport you to the best amusement parks on our planet. We hope you feel welcome on entering our colourful gates and that you have brought your energy with you to enjoy all the games we have to offer.  After visiting the Overhanging Great Wall at Jiayuguan you may try your hand at gingerbread men archery and of course one of our best-known regional activities is riding one of the 500 camels available at the foot of the Singing Sand Dunes in Dunhuang. Please refer to point #1 above to prepare.

#6 Please exit through the gift shop and bring cash

Most of the sites in our region are located in breathtaking settings, set among never-ending desert plains or just at the foot of snow-capped mountain chains. Some may be rather remote, but we have made sure that you will still be able to buy souvenirs and trinkets to bring home to your loved ones. We have purpose-built tourist villages and stands at most of our sites to ensure that you will never leave empty handed. Remember to bring cash.

#7 A good tourist is fast and efficient

We did not become a great country by being slow and taking our time. We expect our visitors want the same. There is always an easy ticket purchasing system, where you will often be met with by an english speaking guide. Please stay close to your guide at all times. At the dazzling Mogao Caves where some of the oldest Buddhist cave art in the world is housed, your guide will have the keys to open each cave your tour group will visit, do not wander off on your own. Please mind the steps and listen carefully.

When taking the mandatory bus through the Danxia Rainbow Mountains on the fairytale-like pink brick road, keep the curtains drawn until your destination to avoid heat entering the bus. At each of the tour stops, descend the bus rapidly, march up the stairs to the viewing platform, pose for and snap a few photos, preferably with a Canon DLSR equipped with a big zoom and return to the bus within 10 minutes. This should ensure you have enough good quality photos of our landscapes and will prove to everyone that you have been here.

#8 End your day at the night market

After all this efficient sightseeing, you must be hungry. We suggest completing your day at one of our cities’ night markets. Most night markets have stalls and restaurants offering numerous versions of local dishes as well as signature dishes from the nearby regions of Sichuan and Yunnan. Walking by the booths may send your senses into a frenzy as you catch a whiff of the numbing “mah lah” spice 麻辣, simmering from the much – loved hot pot broths. Make sure you try the delicious donkey-meat sandwiches, DaPanJi大盘鸡 – spicy chicken stew with thick noodles and the traditional hand-pulled beef noodles from our capital Lanzhou.

The night markets are always bustling with life by sundown, filled with out-of-towners and locals alike. Most restaurants are rated A, B or C for levels of hygiene, A for good, B for pass, C for fail. But usually the tastiest and most popular ones are C rated. The food of Gansu will definitely be one of the highlights on your trip to our region.

Thank you for choosing our region. We hope you will visit us again.