Iran…Through The Funnel

Iran is the second in our series – “…Through the Funnel”. You can read our first one about Turkey here.It is a way for us to share 12 aspects that stood out to us in our experience of the country and its people. Did we miss something that stood out to you in Iran? 

#1 And the magic question is…Has your image of Iran changed? 

This is hands down the most frequent question we would get after the obligatory “where are you from?”. Iranians are universally proud of their country and while some criticise their government or are even planning their lives abroad, they are always full of praise for their homeland. Whether it is pride for their rich Persian history, bustling Tehran or the fact that at any given time there are four seasons simultaneously within its borders, most Iranians are pained by the inaccurate picture painted abroad of this “dangerous” country. “You see that we are not all terrorists, right?” and “We are not Arabs!” Iran has been the safest country we have been to so far on this trip and definitely different from the mainstream discourse fed through western media and fears.

#2 The road is a matter of life or death 

Iran may be incredibly safe, but the one dangerous, life-threatening, mind-boggling, heart-stopping aspect, is the traffic. I kid you not, the first few rides we took, I was praying that the driver was not on a suicide mission and wanted to survive as much as I did. After a couple of weeks, you realise that by some kind of miraculous mutual understanding and much less horn blaring than in India or China, the cars and pedestrians manage to avoid each other and play some kind of accelerated Tetris game, inserting themselves into any gap available to keep the flow moving. 

#3 Follow the unexpected with people people people 

Ah, travelling in Iran is like being cuddled and wrapped in a warm cozy blanket. From the moment we set foot in the country, we were literally babysat by strangers, taken to destinations by friendly passer-bys, invited for dinners and lunches at homes, to World Cup football games, friendly french institute classes, guided tours around monuments, the list is never-ending. It is a stunning country, with gorgeous landscapes, great food and inspiring architecture, but it would be nothing without its incredible people. The strongest memory we have of the country will always be the kindness, hospitality and generosity of its people and the new friends we made. The biggest secret to having the best time in Iran is simply learning to say “Yes’. 

#4 Summer streets buzz at night

When we arrived in the southern town of Yazd it was deserted, the streets empty, the parched wind blowing up mini-twisters of sand and not a soul in sight. Mmmm…not sure how we feel about this. We soon learnt that this was down to pure intelligence to coexist with the sweltering heat. On days where the thermometer reached 47 degrees, it was impossible to walk around town until after sunset and indeed, almost every other city we went to came to life at night. The quiet bazaar and alleyways of the day were filled with neon lights, food and youth hanging around the streets checking each other out. Families disembarked into parks and gardens with their large cloths and tupperwares to dine alfresco and capture as much of the cool night air as possible.

#5 The transport system puts Trenitalia to shame 

If you ever have a chance to take the train in Iran, do it. By far the train system is the best one we have seen on this trip and most countries for that matter, for a quarter of the price tag. A night train from Tabriz to Tehran is a luxurious experience, costs a little over 10 dollars per person and includes coffee, tea, biscuits and a rather clean lavatory. I can shamefully admit that on one journey, due to the cheap deal and my personal battle with female travel etiquette, we even decided to buy the four bunks of one compartment to be more at ease for the trip. Compared to the 80 euros we had to pay from Paris to Venice on a train that was built around the time I was born, I’ll take the Iranian one anytime. Iranians like to travel in comfort and the buses are no exception. The V.I.P night buses have three seats per row, imagine a business class-sized chaise from your favourite airline and there you have it, meal and drinks included, all for the painful price tag of 10 dollars. 

#6 Qalyan 

In many countries I have been too, the qalyan (the shisha, narghilé, hookah) is often reserved for social gatherings or at least something to be shared among friends over çay. In Iran, we often spotted people lighting up their own personal qalyan, by the roadside, in mountain tents or even by women in internal courtyards (it is illegal for women to smoke in public) puffing away while sipping their black çay and sugar lumps.

#12 Monumental awe

Everybody gather round and go “Waaaaah”. The ratio of stunning structures and monuments to landmass in Iran must be higher than most countries. From the intricate mosques interiors of Shiraz, the genius baygirs (natural wind coolers) of Yazd’s roofs, the dazzling squares of “Half the World” in Esfahan to the ancient ruins of Persepolis, it is incredible that Iran is not one of the top tourist destinations on our planet. If only people knew, it would be.  Go before the secret is out.